I needed some more complex solving type projects so I decided to get a small cheap laser printer and see what trouble I can get into with one of those machines. So far so good as it’s similar to my 3d printing machine except it’s a totally different medium to work with. It should keep me pretty busy around Christmas time making presents for family and friends.
I finally had enough with the propel drive locks on my Native Slayer 10 kayak being such a pain most of the time to engage and disengage so I decided to put my own “spin” on things and create a drive lock mechanism that, to me, is easier to use and more efficient than the stock units.
I put in a long full day working on my Hobie TI today with much success… Now if only the local DMV would stop sitting on the paperwork so I can get it registered things would move along more quickly…
This video demonstrates how I chose to modify my Suzuki df2.5 four stroke outboard to run from an external fuel source which in my case is a modified plastic fuel container.
As they say “necessity is the mother of invention”. So I needed to come up with a way to protect the kayak when stored outdoors while also trying to maintain a budget… Kayak covers, in general, are pretty expensive and just covers the kayak itself but in my situation its more than just the hull that need protecting as this hobie also has amas which are almost as long as the kayak itself. This led me to try out a boat cover which ended up being a wonderful solution for me once I figured out how to deal with all the extra material the boat cover had to offer.
Started working on a double up Ctug cart project for my Hobie Adventure Island. After receiving the Railblaza double up bar and visualizing its limitations I opted to return it and just make my own version and so far – so good. I have the option now of using an aluminum or pvc tube and I can increase or decrease the distance between the two carts just by sliding it on its center tube which was not an option with the Railblaza. I’ll make a diy video soon showing the details on how I did this for those that may be interested.
Summer is here in Florida and with it comes the wicked heat which means it’s time for me to take cover and start with the night fishing again except this time around I wanted to increase my lighting situation… This little project has fulfilled this goal.
I’m excited to be bringing this Hobie back to its former glory while tweaking it to my liking which begins with upgrading the seats in diy fashion with hopes of obtaining a more memorable experience when out on the water.
Curiosity got the best of me today… So here is what a Hobie Pro Angler 14 looks like with outriggers from a Tandem Island. This is for those who may have wondered about this very same type of setup. Akas and amas are from a 2012 model.
I finally got the hull crack welded up on my Hobie Tandem Island despite how hot and humid the temperature was outside today. For this being my first time doing plastic welding I have to say that it was a pretty simple process. I originally was planning to use welding staples to help keep the two sides of the crack together to help begin the welding process but decided to just go with a one wire twist method. Overall I’m very happy with the way the weld turned out. Now waiting on the parts that I ordered online that were missing on the kayak when I originally got it to begin arriving in the mail. In the mean time the plan for me will be to update my jetski trailer that I primarily use for my Hobie PA14 and make it dual purpose by extending the tongue so that it can also accommodate the length of Tandem Island.